Let’s talk about
Thread Painting. There are many books out there that show you various ways to
thread paint with your machine.
My favorite book is Ellen Anne Eddy’s book, Thread Magic. And I
hear she has come out with a new book called, Thread Magic Garden.
Libby Lehman
also has a great book out called Threadplay, showing how to do her ribbon
pattern.
Both are great reference books.
I like using a hoop. You can purchase
an embroidery hoop that is thinner then a regular hoop from Quality Sewing. The thinner hoop is necessary
because it fits under the presser foot of your machine. If you can’t locate one
buy a 10” wooden hoop and sand down a 2” area so it will fit under the presser
foot of your machine.
I usually make a drawing of what I want
to thread paint. Then using some Super Solvy,
water-soluble stabilizer, by sulky, in medium weight, which is translucent, I
trace the design onto it. I use a permanent black extra fine sharpie to trace
with.
Some times I find a piece of material
that has a design that I want to use to thread paint and if that is the case, I
cut it out so it fits in the hoop (about a 12” square), and proceed to sew it
as I would a design of my own. Note though, that if you thread paint very
thickly you will need to cut the fabric around the edge off so it will lay
flat.
As you can see that is what I will have to do with
Threader, my dragon.
Threader, was a
panel, which you often see for sale at quilt shows and some shops. I did not
use a hoop because my thread was too thick, so instead I backed it with Deco
Bond. It was just a matter of going over the picture with the thread, in my
choice of color, then cutting him out and sewing him to a piece of my hand dyed
fabric.
But I digress! After I have the design
just the way I want it, I start building my hoop sandwich! I lay the outside
hoop down on the table (that’s the larger of the two pieces), then I place one
or two layers of tulle down, then top that with the stabilizer that has the
design on it. Now I take the inside hoop and place it in the center pushing it
down so all the layers are flat on the table and then I tighten the hoop so
everything is secure. This is opposite of how you would set up a hoop for hand
embroidery because you need what you will be sewing on to be flat against the
bed of your machine, just as you would fabric you are sewing on.
At this point I need to say a word or
two about thread. There are many kinds of thread and the thread you use will
determine the look of your finished product. As a base I usually use Rayon
thread. Rayon thread is not as strong as other threads so it isn’t often used
for sewing but it has a nice sheen to it and I like the results. The finished
product won’t have any tension on it so you don’t need a strong thread.
Sometimes I want a shine to my piece,
like in my dragon, “Threader”. I did the whole piece with rayon, and then went
over it lightly with a metallic thread. I also like to out line my work with a Madeira thread called Super
Twist. Which can also be found at Quality
Sewing Stores or ordered directly from Madeira, at madeirausa.com,
it comes in lots of colors although I mostly use black. Super Twist is a
polyester thread with a metallic thread twisted around it. I find it is much
smoother to sew with then regular metallic thread, especially if I am satin
stitching the outline, and it has a nice sparkle to it!
I know that some sewers hate to change
thread and often use a neutral color thread so they don’t have to change it
every time they change fabric colors. I use to be one of them! If you want your
thread painting to be beautiful, you’ll just have to get over it! I use up to
20 or more different colors on some pieces and that means changing the thread!
Some times it means changing the bobbin thread also! However if the bobbin
thread isn’t showing on top you can stick with a thin, bottom line thread, in a
neutral color.
Now, about needles, all needles are not
the same! I use a top stitch 90/14 for most of my stitching and a metallic
90/14 needle when sewing with metallic thread. This seems like a “no brainer”
when using metallic thread but you would be surprised how many people don’t use
the right needle. The faster you are sewing, as you will be while thread
painting, the more friction will be put on the thread, so the bigger the eye of
the needle should be. An 80/12 is a normal quilting and piecing needle size. I
use a 60/10 when I am sewing on beads and a 100/16 when using 12-weight thread.
The main advantage to using a metallic needle with metallic thread is the shape
and the smoothness of the eye. I prefer Klasse’ brand needles because they
carry a Titanium needle that bends instead of breaking as a regular needle
might when thread painting. They also line the metallic needles eye with
titanium for added smoothness! And for every two packs of needles you buy you
get the third one free!
Ok, so now you have your hoop sandwich,
your threads, and your needles, you are ready to get started. DROP THE FEED DOGS!!! This is a must, so you
don’t snag the tulle. If for some unknown reason your feed dogs won’t drop, you
can get out the masking tape and tape over them.
Hold your hoop lightly on each side
while you are sewing, as in any quilting project the design stays in one direction
and you move it so the thread goes where you want it. That means that you are
not subject to just sewing in a straight line, so instead of moving the hoop
around and around, you move it so the needle hits where you want it to. I always start by outlining the piece then I fill in the color and outline again. You need to be sure that the threads lock together so when you are done you have a solid piece to cut out. Think of this as an appliqué that you might purchase to sew on something. It will be just thread. Wash it in very warm water to dissolve the solvy and you can shape it at this point because the solvy acts like a starch. I often do butterflies this way so their wings can stand out away from the piece. This is a postcard that has one of my butterflies attached to it.
I
usually start new students out with a blank piece of fabric that has been backed with some Deco Bond stabilizer in the hoop and
have them practice moving the hoop around so they can see how the needle and
thread can easily travel from one spot to another. Take note of how the fabric reacts to heavy stitching, see how it warps it? That is where the zigzag stitch can be used in the opposite direction to help smooth it out.
The zig zag stitch is
good for filling in spaces and for writing words and for outlining your piece.
You can change the width of the zig zag but remember you are the feed dogs, so
you control how close the stitches go. You can also get an interesting effect
with the zigzag stitch by moving at an angle.
Practice, practice, practice! They say
you should have 10 hours of quilting practice before you even consider quilting
a quilt. I’m not really good at waiting. My first free motion, quilting attempt
was a Lewis and Clark quilt I was making for a Quilt Contest at Hancock
Fabrics. As luck would have it, the quilt turned out very nice and Hancock
canceled the contest because of financial problems!
I recommend that you start small and
build on your skills and practice as much as you can. It is important to relax
while you are sewing. Put on some music that will help you relax, not go to
sleep kind of relaxed, something that inspires your creativity. Make sure you
have a comfortable chair to sit in. Even if I travel somewhere to sew, I always
take a chair. One that is adjustable and has wheels so you can maneuver and has
a padded seat! There is nothing worst then having to use a metal or plastic
folding chair that is too low for the high table that your machine is on!
I recently invested in a Sew Ezi sewing table that is a great fold up
table that has wheels and a drop down for my machine. They sell the slide in to
fit your machine exactly, by brand and style. They also sell a solid drop in,
that is great to use as a light table. You can order one from, www.sewezi.com Light is the other necessary element to
sewing; a good light source is a must! Try to find one that shows true color. Ott lights are really good for showing you the
true color of what you are sewing. The replacement bulbs can be quite
expensive! Good use for your Jo Ann’s
40% off coupon!!!
Your machine tension is another element
to consider. I work on a Bernina sewing
machine and I usually set my thread tension at 2 and completely dial back the
presser foot tension. Not all machines offer this option so check your owner’s
manual and see what you can change! You should be able to move the hoped fabric
freely and no bobbin thread should show on top.
Gather all your equipment, put on the
music, load your hoop with a blank piece of fabric and practice, practice,
practice! Don’t forget to have fun.